India’s Handloom Industry: Significance & Challenges Faced

  • Context (PIB): The Ministry of Textiles celebrated the 11th National Handloom Day on August 7, with national weaver awards presented to the skilled weavers.

India’s Handloom Industry: Status

  • The handloom sector is India’s largest cottage industry with 2.8 million looms in operation.
  • It is the second-largest employment provider in rural India after Agriculture, engaging around 35.22 lakh workers, of which 72% are women.
  • In FY24, India exported handloom products worth Rs 1,146 crore. The USA was the top importer, followed by the UAE.

Significance of the Handloom Industry

  • Cultural Heritage: The Banarasi saree, Pochampally ikat, and Kanchipuram silk are globally recognised for their intricate designs and craftsmanship.
  • Sustainable and Eco-Friendly: Handloom weaving uses natural fibres like cotton, silk, and wool, which are biodegradable and environmentally friendly.
  • Rural Economy Support: The industry plays a vital role in the rural economy by supporting livelihoods and generating income for families.
  • Promoting Gender Equality: Women constitute about 70% of the total handloom workforce.

Challenges Faced by the Industry

  • Competition from Power Looms and Machine-Made Products: The introduction of polyester flags for the Har Ghar Tiranga campaign highlights the preference for cheaper products over handwoven khadi.
  • Erosion of the Flag Code’s Original Intent: The Flag Code of India was amended in 2021 to allow machine-made polyester flags, replacing the earlier requirement for hand-spun and hand-woven khadi.
  • Lack of Market Access and Branding: Despite global demand for sustainable and fair-trade products, Indian handloom has not been effectively marketed to a global audience.
  • GST and Tax Burdens: GST on raw materials like yarn, dyes, and chemicals increases production costs, squeezing the already thin margins of handloom weavers.
  • Declining Government Support: Government initiatives like the Vishwakarma Yojana exclude handloom weavers and existing khadi cooperatives lack sufficient support and resources.
  • Inadequate Wages and Poor Working Conditions: Handloom weavers earn meagre wages of ₹200-₹250 per day, despite the labour-intensive nature of their work.

Government Initiatives to Support Handloom Sector

  • National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP): Central sector scheme for comprehensive development and self-sustainability of handloom clusters at the block level.
  • Handloom Mark Scheme: Brands handloom products, ensuring authenticity and securing a premium market position domestically and internationally
  • Yarn Supply Scheme: Ensures regular supply of quality yarn at reasonable prices through NHDC and state governments.
  • Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS): Develops mega handloom clusters (15,000+ looms) with funding for technology, product development, and marketing.
  • Handloom Weavers’ Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS): Provides life and accidental insurance for weavers aged 18-50, offering up to Rs. 2 lakhs for death or disability.

National Handloom Day

  • Celebrated on 7th August since 2015 to mark Swadeshi Movement 1905, promoting handlooms & indigenous industry.
  • Cultural Heritage: Banarasi, Pochampally, and Kanchipuram sarees are renowned globally.
  • Mass Employment: The handloom sector is the second-largest employer after agriculture, providing livelihoods to over 35 lakh people, with 70% being women.

Way Forward

  • Restoration of Khadi and Handloom Identity: Khadi should be reinstated as the sole fabric for the national flag, emphasizing its cultural and historical significance.
  • Tax Reforms: Exempt handloom products from GST or introduce subsidies on its raw materials.
  • Financial Support: Provide easy credit access to handloom weavers through schemes like MUDRA loans.
  • Global Branding and Market Expansion: Launch global campaigns to promote Indian handloom as a luxury and sustainable product.
  • Strengthening Cooperatives and Local Institutions: Empower handloom weavers to form cooperatives and self-help groups for better bargaining power and market access.

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